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Palermo is the largest city in Sicily – and, curiously, the largest Italian city not to have its name altered in English, unlike Roma, Milano, Napoli, Firenze etc.
Situated on a natural harbour in the northwest of the island, its history goes back to the 8th century BC. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Saracens, Normans, Angevins, Spanish and others have ruled – Palermo claims to be the most conquered city in the world. At one stage it even had 300 mosques.
Palermo has many problems – the Mafia, corruption and crime, unemployment and appalling slums but is also a city of great character, history, churches, palaces, markets and excellent food.
It is also the gateway to the beautiful island of Sicily. Most of the city's sights can be reached on foot so do not even think of driving and parking in the city centre!
The main attractions include the Porta Nuova, the gate leading to the centre of the city where the Cathedral, once a mosque but converted into a church from 1185, can be found.
There are many other churches from the 11th and 12th centuries and fabulous Baroque architecture in Santa Teresa alla Kalsa and the Church of Jesus.
The Palazzo dei Normanni is a beautiful palace dating back to Norman times, built over an Arab fortress, while the Palazzo Abatellis is also the Regional Gallery. The Archaeological Museum is one of the most important in Italy.
An unusual sight is the Catacombs of the Capuchins just west of the city centre with 8,000 mummified former residents of Palermo and surrounding villages.
Other sights include the Vuccira outside market, the Santa Rosalia Sanctuary, 430m above sea level at the top of steps cut from rock and built in 1625 and the Piazza Marina, a picturesque square laid out in 1863 with its impressive Garibaldi garden and fig trees.
Sicily isn't noted for the efficiency of its public transport system and car rental maybe the best way to see the rest of the island but there is a city wide bus network in Palermo run by AMAT and the routes are quite comprehensive, covering the centre and the city suburbs. There is a bus service to and from the central railway station. Trains run from Rome and Naples via train ferry.
There are ferry services ferries to Ustica, Genova, Livorno, Naples, Cagliari and Tunis. Hydrofoil services to Cefalù and the Aeolian Islands are available during the summer. Many small cruise boats also take visitors along the coast.
Palermo International Airport is at Punta Raisi, 32km west of the city, and is served by both budget airlines and national carriers.
Every month our travel writers comb the web for city break deals to Palermo. Visit our Palermo holiday shop to browse through the latest offers.